A Case for the Denim Cut-Off
Some things go out of style. Others fray at the edges and get even better. Style Director Emily Newnam on the denim cut-off.
I’ve been thinking a lot about denim shorts.
Recently at a dinner party with friends, the conversation turned to our summer wardrobes—what we’re shopping for, what our style evolution will be once the city becomes sticky and hot. We spoke about swapping out our winter bags for big raffia totes, debated the polarizing topic of sandals on the subway (for the record, I’m pro) and the hunt for the perfect summer dress to run city errands in or toss into a weekend bag for a beach getaway.
Then came the subject of shorts.
Everyone seemed to be in agreeance that there is a checklist for shorts shopping:
A tailored linen short for work (see here).
A sporty, pull-on short that can be layered over a swimsuit or back to a matching shirt (see here).
A utility short to dress up or down (see here).
And then I found myself going on an impassioned rant about how I will never stop wearing a denim cut-off and neither should they. Denim shorts are, to me, something that will stay in my wardrobe summer after summer until probably forever. Nothing makes me happier than a pair that have become perfectly lived in after countless trips to the beach, finding sand and shells in their pockets months later; the wash gets better, the fraying at the hem gains more character. And each summer I buy a new pair to add into the rotation—a slightly different rinse, inseam, silhouette.
But as much as I love them, I also know they can be an intimidating category to style. The secret is, as with almost anything when it comes to getting dressed, making it your own.
When I say “make it your own,” I not only mean finding your fit, which is, of course, essential, but it’s more than that; it’s about landing on your style. Think about who your summer muse is and work backwards.
I find whenever I’m in a styling rut, I take a pause and ask, who is this character? What’s the feeling you want to evoke? Where are you going? What are you listening to? All of those little decisions in the outfit then go through that filter—it’s my solution to whatever the equivalent of writer's block is for getting dressed.
I like to start with finding a reference image to use as a North Star and then sort of riffing from there. In the category of cut-offs, the references are pretty endless; I’ve got a whole folder on my laptop dedicated to them. For the sake of this exercise, I’ve chosen Jane Birkin, Chloë Sevigny and Kate Moss to be my muses for outfit inspiration—undeniably three of the best to ever wear shorts.
Jane Birkin
The first word I think of when it comes to Jane Birkin is ease. Nothing fussy, nothing over-styled. The proportions are just right and the accessories are even better. A straw bag, a ballet flat or espadrille. Jane makes a strong case for outfit repeating—rewearing items again and again that exude comfort in her own style that is infectious. The key here is also fit; when you’re referencing a look so reliant on basics, quality fabrics and a thoughtful fit make all the difference.
Chloë Sevigny
One of the coolest to ever do it, really. The effortlessness that denim shorts bring to her looks balance out the unexpected twists of the supporting styling elements—loafers and socks, a vintage varsity sweater and blazer, a ruffle trimmed blouse. Her looks make a strong case for fun, and always inspire me to break out of uniform dressing and reach for pieces that have a bit of personality to them, or even a bit of a clash.
Kate Moss
There is something about the way Kate wears shorts that makes you think she may have been born in them. They aren’t just a summer staple—they're signature. When it comes to denim, I love the way she brings in the balance of easy menswear—a little black vest, an easy white button down shirt, a shrunken lady jacket. The pairing is unexpected, effortless and creates a tension that I always love in a look. Her accessories make them anything but minimal, often bringing in perfect sunglasses, black leather boots or ballet flats or a statement necklace that makes it all her own.
Team Kate Moss! Can I just say, I love when brands do things right - and Madewell, you understand Substack!
love the kate moss!